A Life Well Traveled

The first time you walk into a tapas bar in Spain can be a little overwhelming. There is food all over the bar, people standing around with glasses of wine, someone ordering something hot from the kitchen, and nobody to tell you what to do.

Pintxos are especially tied to places like the Basque region, where going from bar to bar is part of the culture. Once we got the hang of it, it became one of our favorite ways to eat. It is casual, social, and actually easy with kids because you are not committing to a long, drawn-out dinner every time you sit down.

So, what exactly is a pintxo?

Pintxos are small bites of food and a huge part of Basque food culture. Some are already made and displayed along the bar, while others are hot and need to be ordered from the bartender or from a menu.

They can be simple, like tortilla, jamón, anchovies, or something served on bread, but some are much more elaborate and feel like a tiny restaurant dish. The most important thing to understand is that you are not necessarily supposed to order a whole meal at one place.

A lot of the fun is going from bar to bar, ordering one or two pintxos and a drink, eating, and then moving on. We loved doing this in both Bilbao and San Sebastián because it let us try more places without making the boys sit through a long dinner.

And while you will hear the word tapas all over Spain, in the Basque Country they are pintxos. That distinction is part of the proud Basque culture.

Pintxos vs. raciones

This was most certainly the thing that confused us most at first.

A pintxo is a small individual bite. A ración is a larger plate meant to be shared. You may also see media ración, which is a half portion. So you might order one pintxo of tortilla or anchovy, but a ración of croquetas, octopus, artichokes, txuleta, or something similar for the table. With the kids, this worked really well. Ben and I could try different pintxos while the boys shared a larger plate of something they already knew they liked. And of course, trying new things like Sea Urchin were at the top of the list.

Then there is the regular menu

A lot of pintxos bars are not just pintxos bars. You can be standing at a counter full of small bites and still order steak, fish, or another larger dish from the kitchen. That is why it can feel confusing at first. You may see one person eating a pintxo at the bar and someone right next to them eating a full plate of steak.

In San Sebastián, Gandarias was a good example of this. We stopped there for pintxos several times, but we also ordered larger dishes from the menu, like their artichokes and txuleta.

How do you actually order?

Usually, you just go right up to the bar. Take a look at what is out, check the board or menu for anything hot, and order directly from the bartender. If you are not sure what something is, ask. We also watched what other people were ordering a lot and basically copied them when something looked good.

Once you order, you can usually stand at the bar, sit at a small table, or take your food outside if there is space. Depending on the place, you might pay right away or keep ordering and pay when you are finished. We would usually order a few things, sit down with the boys, go back up for more if we wanted, and then pay at the bar before leaving. Once you understand that, it feels much less intimidating. Just walk up, order, find a spot, eat, go back for more if you want it, pay, and move on to the next place.

A Few Spanish Phrases for Ordering

You do not need perfect Spanish to order tapas or pintxos, but a few simple phrases make it much easier.

La cuenta, por favor. – The check, please.
¿Qué me recomiendas? – What do you recommend?
¿Me pones uno de esos, por favor? – Can I have one of those, please?
¿Qué lleva? – What’s in it?
¿Cuál es el más típico? – Which one is the most typical?
¿Nos pones otra ronda? – Can we get another round?
Está buenísimo. – It’s really good.

¿Me pones uno de esos, por favor? — Can I have one of those, please?

Doing pintxos with kids

We found pintxos hopping to be so easy with the boys. We usually started a little earlier than the locals, ordered a few things, sat for a bit, and then moved on before anyone got restless. Pro tip: find a plaza where you can enjoy your meal while your kids run around the open space.

In San Sebastián, Plaza de la Constitución was especially easy because we could sit outside, eat, let the boys move around a little, and then walk to another place nearby. Some nights we bounced between bars. Other nights we realized everyone was tired and needed to sit down for a real dinner. The other great thing about Spain is that most places to eat are placed around a playground or outdoor area where the kids could play.

Must-try tapas and pintxos in Spain

If it is your first time eating your way through Spain, there are a few things I would look for almost anywhere you go. Menus change a lot from region to region, but these are the classics we kept seeing and ordering again and again:

• Tortilla española — a thick potato and egg omelet, sometimes made with onion. You will see it everywhere, and every place does it a little differently.
• Croquetas — crispy on the outside and creamy inside, usually filled with jamón, chicken, cod, or cheese.
• Jamón ibérico — thinly sliced cured ham and one of those things you should try at least once while you are in Spain.

• Patatas bravas — fried potatoes topped with bravas sauce. Simple, easy to share, and usually a safe bet with kids too.
• Gambas al ajillo — shrimp cooked with garlic and olive oil, usually served hot and bubbling.
• Pulpo — octopus, which you will see prepared in different ways depending on the region. It is especially common in northern Spain.
• Pimientos — fried or grilled peppers, often served simply with olive oil and salt.
• Gilda — an anchovy, olive, and pickled pepper skewer. This is especially popular in the Basque Country and is one of the most classic pintxos to try.

Keep It Simple

If you are traveling through Spain, the style of eating changes from region to region. In Andalusia you will hear much more about tapas, while in the Basque Country, especially in Bilbao and San Sebastián, pintxos are their own thing.

You really do not need to know every rule before you walk into your first bar. Go in, look around, order what looks good, have a drink if you want one, and see where the night takes you. Once we stopped worrying about whether we were doing it right, it became one of our favorite parts of traveling through the Basque Country.